Kerry Bexley, tending the fire before the rush. 📸 @reservedtablestudio There are barbecue joints you visit, and then there are barbecue joints you commit to. Snow’s is the second kind. It is Saturday only. Doors at 8:00 a.m. Meat until it is gone. Ms. Tootsie Tomanetz turns 91 tomorrow as of writing this, and somehow the place still carries that rare thing most famous restaurants lose somewhere along the way: its pulse. I got there at 1 a.m. and still fell well short of bein